Paris-based designer Yohan Serfaty unveiled ‘Parasomnia’, his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection for his Y Project label, during Paris Men’s Fashion Week on 27 June 2012. Following a creative direction explored in past collections (see The Style Examiner’s previous review HERE), the range focussed on a reduced number of looks that blended materials and textures by setting delicate yet stiff leathers against soft and light pelts (including kangaroo and soft reindeer in a range of finishes) and finer fabrics such as crisp cotton and woven paper cloth.
The collection continues the designer’s intention to explore the roles that structure and dimensions play in the processes of designing and producing clothes. To this end, asymmetrical jackets incorporate metal hook fastenings, sleeves are occasionally elongated and flared, and collars are oversized. At the same time, trousers come in a variety of cuts and tailoring (from slim fit to wide and pleated) and light long cardigans in feather cotton contribute to the creation of fluid and elongated silhouettes. The collection’s colour palette accentuates the potential of playing with divergent structures, designs and textures by juxtaposing deep blacks against shades of grey and white.
Born in Casablanca in 1966, Serfaty studied political science before following his call towards the realm of fashion. He started his own line of womenswear in 2008 and in 2010 he launched Y Project, a menswear line that advocates a gender-neutral approach to fashion. Each Y Project collection is created with the intention to be timeless, with some construction details envisaged to evolve over time while staying faithful to the original aesthetics of the brand.
Photographs © Olivier Claisse