For his Autumn/Winter womenswear collection, London-based fashion designer David Koma found inspiration in the futuristic concepts that couturiers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin imbued into their collections in the early 1960s to create a new and confident woman. However, Koma’s interpretation of the dynamic space age featured contemporary touches that transformed the geometry of masculine of boxy, A-line shapes into feminine silhouettes through the juxtaposition with circles of different scales and fabric combinations. This was elegantly achieved through a myriad of layers of Vinyl-like discs, circular leather collars, zips that opened to reveal concentric flashes of skin and high necklines in metallic leathers.
The notion of circularity extended seductively throughout the collection in coats whose dimensions closed at waist level to open once to create a large neckline or twice to create a subtle double lapel. Equally, concentric padded circles and semi-circles, and horizontal zippers could be seen under the triangular folds of biker jackets’ lapels and thick belts, stressing the opposition between geometric figures. The combination of contrasting elements continued in a palette that mixed black with bright red, teal, midnight blue and nude in textured fabrics such as laser-cut leather, organza, quilted wool and flock print.
Photographs courtesy of David Koma