Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Jean-Paul Knott Menswear Autumn/Winter 2013

Belgian fashion designer Jean-Paul Knott (whose Spring/Summer 2013 collection I examined a few months back – see HERE) has recently shared images of his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear with The Style Examiner. Inspired by the fashions worn by men in ancient Rome, Knott’s latest offering of men’s clothes is marked by heavy fabrics draped over the body in neutral shades of grey, taupe, rust, navy and black. The collection’s elegant silhouettes are achieved by balancing contrasting shapes, namely by combining oversized outerwear, exaggerated dropped crotches and large scarves with elasticated backs in coats, trousers tapered at the ankles, fitted knitwear and tailored blazers.
















Photographs courtesy of Jean-Paul Knott


Monday, 27 May 2013

Rafael De Cárdenas Collaborates with Rivieras Shoes

New York-based architect Rafael De Cárdenas has collaborated with leisure footwear brand Rivieras to create four exclusive shoe designs. Made from gabardine fabric, the dual-tone shoes update the traditional Rivieras by featuring De Cárdenas’s signature zigzag graphics and vibrant colour combinations. The limited-edition line launches in June 2013 at London’s Dover Street Market, at Opening Ceremony in New York City, and at Colette in Paris.






Images courtesy of Rivieras


Unravelling the Success Secrets of Delusion Menswear

When I first came across the menswear brand Delusion on a visit to the fashion showcase Tranoï in Paris, my first thought was that this was a label whose designs deserved to stand out for their conceptual playfulness. Since it was founded by Ryan Heard in 2010 in Manchester, England, Delusion’s collections have revealed inspiration from 1980s Japanese fashion as well as the work produced by Belgian designers during the 1990s, and used accomplished techniques to create original structures.



With such noteworthy conceptual and manufacturing processes behind the label, it has not come as a surprise that, in just a few years, Delusion has garnered interest by significant retailers and became available in stores in France, Germany, Hong Kong, The Netherlands, UK and the USA. Furthermore, its clothes have become popular with consumers owing to its ingenious investigation into the deconstruction, disintegration and distortion of textiles, as well as trialling new wash and manufacturing techniques; all leading to the creation of appealing asymmetric shapes and cuts.

Bearing in mind that this is a label that The Style Examiner considers genuinely interesting, we are delighted to partner with online retailer Intro Clothing to offer our readers a 15% discount when purchasing Delusion pieces from the Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter ranges. All you have to do is use the code styleexaminer15 on the checkout page when purchasing an item by Delusion by 30 November 2013. Happy shopping!

























Photographs courtesy of Delusion 


Sunday, 26 May 2013

University of Westminster 2013 Fashion Graduates Runway Show

When it comes to University end-of-year shows, comparing the work produced by a graduating cohort to the output generated by its predecessors becomes an almost unavoidable exercise. If this analytic approach does not always lend itself to the fairest scrutiny (particularly in the creative industries that tend to respond swiftly to pressures imposed on teaching and resources), it is always an interesting process that ultimately reveals how lessons can be (quite literally) learnt or dismissed. And this was my immediate reaction at the end of the University of Westminster’s BA (Honours) Fashion Design runway show as, in a comparative and contrasting context against previous years, the class of 2013 produced the most accomplished work that I have seen coming out of this London higher education institution over the last few years. 

Philli Wood

Philli Wood

If last year I felt that Westminster’s runway show failed the students and tutors on many levels (see my review HERE), the presentation that took place on 24 May 2013 at the University’s Ambika P3 space came across as extremely well edited in the way it unveiled strong collections underpinned by a clear directional creative process. It was evident to me that the students selected to show their work on the runway had studied the history of fashion and absorbed the right influences before developing their own sartorial voices while benefitting from the guidance provided by their tutors.


Under the supervision of course director Andrew Groves, the 2013 graduates of the University of Westminster’s BA Fashion Design conjured a display of experimental sartorial tropes that added to what can be described as a very typical and unique ‘Westminster school of fashion’. As in previous years, there were several examples of layering and juxtaposition of textures; contrasting fabrics, prints and colours; and opposing shapes of different volumetric dimensions. However, what made them distinctive from previous years was the strong and marked proficiency evident throughout every single collection produced by the 17 students chosen for the runway show. All in all, this was a runway show that boded well for the future of British fashion and cemented the BA Fashion Design course at the University of Westminster as one of the most solid and respectable fashion courses in the UK.


 

If all young graduates evidenced a lot of talent, I was particularly taken by Claire Storey’s studied patchwork effects in carefully proportioned garments, James Pawson’s menswear pieces where the sartorial notions of physical pattern-making and inventive conceptual development were translated into a successful balancing act, Philli Wood’s stunning trompe l’oeil prints of cable knitwear in oversized shapes, Sian Thomas’s fluid lines and fabrics anchored by strong prints and strategically positioned chains, Tom Guy’s feminine layering of chiffons bejewelled with metallic flowers, and Victoria Rowe’s noble fabrics and accomplished techniques confidently worked and inspired by Victorian silhouettes.

Aaron Tubb

Aaron Tubb

Chloe Bayles

Chloe Bayles

Claire Storey

Claire Storey

Grace Cooper

Grace Cooper

Dominik Chapman

Dominik Chapman

Holly Penfold

Holly Penfold

James Pawson

James Pawson

Louise Alsop

Louise Alsop

Louise Whittington

Louise Whittington

Lisa Clayton

Lisa Clayton

Sarah Dowling

Sarah Dowling

Sian Thomas

Sian Thomas

Sophie Nuttall

Sophie Nuttal

Sophie Tulhorst

Sophie Tulhorst

Tom Guy

Tom Guy

Victoria Rowe

Victoria Rowe

Photographs by Simon Armstrong, courtesy of the University of Westminster