Friday, 24 January 2014

Aziz Bekkaoui Autumn/Winter 2014

When it comes to conveying political messages through the individual garments and accessories that make up the looks of a fashion show, it can be quite easy to fall flat on any noble conceptual intention by lacking on effective or intelligent outputs. In the case of Aziz Bekkaoui’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection (unveiled during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam on 23 January 2014), the sociological critical purpose became redundantly secondary to the sartorial accomplishment in a successful range of clothes that would have shined on its own and in spite of any underpinning political or religious messaging.

Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner

The ambitious large collection comprised men’s and women’s garments where military garb, Hasidic-inspired looks, the styles of urban subcultures, and sportswear pieces were imbued with the richness of haute couture in a process that (in spite of a performative display nature that kept invoking military oppression) ultimately serve to question the semiotic value of fashion: if shorts, shoulder lines and sleeve volumes were tailored to perfection, bomber jackets were embellished with ruffles and had their lines elongated to become ingenious overcoats; and embroideries and lace were used to cover conventional jackets and dresses not to hide their inherent qualities but to add a creative (and somehow quizzically luxurious) dimension to their everyday usage.

For those present at the fashion show in Amsterdam’s post-industrial Westergasfabriek, just as one thought that the collection was about to finish, another elaborate section came along with accomplished pieces that added further materials and fabrics to the composite elegant range as well as new shades that complemented the sombre colour palette: noble wools were combined with premium leathers; traditional pinstripe prints and heavy tweeds were deconstructed to interrogate their own position and value in fashion; fur and astrakhan were used to make stylish accessories such as hats or oversized weekend bags; knitwear was originally fabricated in angular panels; black and grey gave way to rich browns, burgundy, olive, silver and gold; and metallic chains, stars and heavy boots added a military dimension that, although intended to question the status quo, only served to highlight Aziz Bekkaoui’s accomplished talent in a collection that could not help but being a veritable example of high fashion.

With thanks to Bloggernet for arranging the stay in Amsterdam and accreditation necessary for the production of this article. Unless otherwise stated, photographs are © Team Peter Stigter, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam.

1 comment:

  1. Beautiful ! the new superstar designer from AMSTERDAM !


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