Sunday, 12 January 2014
Richard Nicoll Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear
I admit that, up to very recently, I had never been a big fan of Richard Nicoll’s menswear creations, even though I have admired his womenswear collections for a while. However, his most recent menswear range for Autumn/Winter 2014 (presented during the latest edition of London Collections: Men) had me changing my mind owing to its sharp confident silhouettes and bold choice of bright colours and patterns allied to a purposeful combination of opposing materials and textures.
Nicoll described the collection as “an exploration of contrasting and complimentary pattern, colour and texture (…) to balance opposing elements of order/chaos and discretion/decadence and embrace elements of vulgarity to create a playful study of contemporary formal wear and modernist romance.” If the definition of his conceptual intentions may sound overly complex, the result is an elegant range of pieces that are wearable and yet push the boundaries of traditional tailoring in the way they combine aseasonal items like thin knits and voluminous shorts with thick wool coats, printed bombers and leather biker jackets. In addition, a humorous nod to sartorial pastiche in the form of items such as reinterpreted 1970s frilly bib shirts or word-printed sweatshirts made me re-evaluate and admire Richard Nicoll’s ingenuity.
Photographs by catwalking.com, courtesy of Richard Nicoll