Monday, 3 February 2014

Tony Cohen Autumn/Winter 2014 Womenswear

It was with a warm feeling of satisfaction that hundreds of people defied the chilly and wet evening that awaited them outside at the end of the runway show that unveiled Tony Cohen’s womenswear collection for Autumn/Winter 2014. In contrast to the post-industrial Westergasfabriek (the multifunction venue that hosted the latest Amsterdam Fashion Week), Cohen’s presentation on 26 January 2014 was not only sleek at all levels but also revealed, without a doubt, the strongest collection presented during the twentieth edition of the Dutch showcase when it came to combining sartorial ingenuity and business nous.

Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner



A self-trained designer with a passion for fashion that started early in his life (his official biography states that, as a teenager, he wore creations by Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto and Versace before those brands became popular with the masses), Tony Cohen opted for a career within the sartorial realm following a professional stint as a baseball player. After experimenting with small collections of dyed garments, he founded his eponymous label in 2005, which he developed over the years to include ready-to-wear and haute couture lines that got to be shown during New York Fashion Week and sold in over 250 international stores, including prestigious retailers such as Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel, Bloomingdales, and Harvey Nichols.

For Autumn/Winter 2014, Cohen explored a vision of feminine sensuality that masterfully balanced silhouette proportions by juxtaposing bulbous outerwear pieces and fluid fabrics with fitted dresses or trousers that came in plain, pleated and tapered versions. From the outset, the collection established a series of successful antithetical combinations, including rough textured wool and leather alternating with delicate gauze, soft merino wool and shimmering fluid fabrics in a colour palette where black, beige and white prevailed predominant but were, here and there, interspersed with dashes of pistachio and cerulean blue.

Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner



Furthermore, the 35 looks carefully edited by Cohen revealed an emphasis on elegant statement detailing in the large folded coat lapels, structured blouse collars, meticulous pleating, sharp square shoulders, frayed hemlines, and exaggeratedly long sleeves. A range of shoes with conical peplum-shaped embellishments that circumvented the legs above the ankles, and leather gloves with the odd application of fur contributed to the success of a sophisticated collection that managed to balance commercial nous and creative competence.




































Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner

Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner

Photograph © João Paulo Nunes / The Style Examiner




Unless otherwise stated, photographs are © Team Peter Stigter, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam. With thanks to Bloggernet for arranging the stay in Amsterdam and accreditation necessary for the production of this article.


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