Thursday, 6 March 2014

Brioni Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear

After finding a timeworn travel journal written by Brioni’s co-founder Gaetano Savini during his first trip to Japan in 1963, the menswear brand’s current creative director Brendan Mullane embarked on a journey of creative discovery and inspiration to the land of the rising sun. The result was a collection for Autumn/Winter 2014 that fused eastern and western inspirations, namely the work of kimono artisans, Brioni’s Italian heritage, the architecture of Tadao Ando, and the artworks at the Biennale of Naoshima.

The colour palette was based on muted Renaissance-inspired tones, such as blues, greys, greens and pinks in either solid forms or woven, dyed or superimposed into high-density Japanese wools, mohair and silk blends and double-faced cashmere, often with three-dimensional effects. Pieces that stood out during Brioni’s presentation of the collection at Milan’s Museo della Permanente included a sheared mink coat with a hand-sculpted Prince of Wales effect, and silk shirts and bomber jackets featuring a print by the renowned kimono artists of ‘Chiso’ with traditional Japanese scenes such as plum and cherry blossoms, cranes and bamboos.

A range of accessories in the form of weekend bags, cabin styles and holdalls in embossed chevron wools, grained calfskin, cashmere and shaved mink completed each look, while footwear included double monks, brogues and fringed tasselled loafers with hand-crafted winter soles.

Photographs courtesy of Brioni

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