|Photograph © The Style Examiner / João Paulo Nunes|
By deconstructing and reconstructing conventional tailoring, Pimenta’s collection embraced an almost architectural modernity anchored by an investigation of streetwear and sportswear that he described (not without some humour) as surf couture. “I really wanted to develop a collection that broke my own mould by looking for inspiration in the future rather than in the past. I started by looking at the traditional grey suit, which is a staple of men’s fashion worn on a regular basis like a uniform, and made a few changes by discreetly incorporating new tailoring touches such as geometric patchwork effects” the designer explained in an interview for The Style Examiner. This process went one step further by featuring a palette that (in addition to grey), playfully embraced varied shades of blue, silver, and black, and by experimenting with fabrics and androgynous silhouettes.
In addition, the tailoring of Pimenta’s newest garments is evidence of his inquisitive sartorial investigation: jackets come in sleeveless versions or with soft pagoda shoulders; shirts reveal symmetric panelling effects cutting through yokes and collars; and trousers are offered as a formal part of a suit with slightly wide and cropped cuts, or imbued with the influence of sportswear such as in tightly-fit versions that resemble surf wetsuits, or as voluminous pants with elasticated waists and ankles. A highly accomplished range of shoes developed in collaboration with footwear brand West Coast complemented the overall focus on experimentation that confirmed why this collection is, without a doubt, one of João Pimenta’s most successful ever.