Saturday, 5 April 2014

João Pimenta Spring/Summer 2014/15

As the only fashion designer showing during São Paulo Fashion Week whose creations focus exclusively on men’s fashion and accessories, the pressure is always on João Pimenta to unveil regular and constant sartorial innovation in the vast (and largely conservative) realm of Brazilian menswear. Nevertheless, against the context of such high hopes, on 31 March 2014 (the first day of the latest edition of São Paulo Fashion Week) Pimenta revealed a collection for Spring/Summer 2014/15 that proved to be one of his strongest in years.  

Photograph © The Style Examiner / João Paulo Nunes

By deconstructing and reconstructing conventional tailoring, Pimenta’s collection embraced an almost architectural modernity anchored by an investigation of streetwear and sportswear that he described (not without some humour) as surf couture. “I really wanted to develop a collection that broke my own mould by looking for inspiration in the future rather than in the past. I started by looking at the traditional grey suit, which is a staple of men’s fashion worn on a regular basis like a uniform, and made a few changes by discreetly incorporating new tailoring touches such as geometric patchwork effects” the designer explained in an interview for The Style Examiner. This process went one step further by featuring a palette that (in addition to grey), playfully embraced varied shades of blue, silver, and black, and by experimenting with fabrics and androgynous silhouettes.

If in his previous collections Pimenta opted for developing his own fabrics on a small production scale that resorted to manual manufacturing processes, his Spring/Summer 2014/15 range introduced a momentous shift. “This collection marked a departure for me as I produced the fabrics industrially in Brazil for the first time while attempting to keep a focus on exclusivity and originality. At the same time, I enjoyed exploring the potential of these new and more resistant fabrics and was able to develop shapes that I have been wanting to use for a while.” Such an experimental approach could not have produced better results, with an abundance of alluring fabrics (such as laminated cottons and polyesters, leathers, satins, silks, and wools woven with metallic yarns) used with great success throughout the collection.

In addition, the tailoring of Pimenta’s newest garments is evidence of his inquisitive sartorial investigation: jackets come in sleeveless versions or with soft pagoda shoulders; shirts reveal symmetric panelling effects cutting through yokes and collars; and trousers are offered as a formal part of a suit with slightly wide and cropped cuts, or imbued with the influence of sportswear such as in tightly-fit versions that resemble surf wetsuits, or as voluminous pants with elasticated waists and ankles. A highly accomplished range of shoes developed in collaboration with footwear brand West Coast complemented the overall focus on experimentation that confirmed why this collection is, without a doubt, one of João Pimenta’s most successful ever.

Unless otherwise specified, photographs are courtesy of

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