Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Jonathan Scarpari Spring/Summer 2014/15 Menswear

Hailing from the southern Brazilian state of Santa Catarina, young menswear designer Jonathan Scarpari started being noticed in his home country after taking part in prestigious regional and national talent-spotting competitions such as Entremeios and Movimento Hotspot. A subsequent recognition by Casa de Criadores (the São Paulo-based creative platform responsible for launching the careers of several Brazilian designers) contributed towards making his menswear creations garner further praise by critics and be featured in publications in Brazil, Italy and the UK, including FFW, Brainstorm Mag, and GQ Italia.

Photograph © The Style Examiner / João Paulo Nunes

An academic background in Chemistry and Agriculture concluded prior to discovering a passion for fashion,developed in Scarpari an interest in formulas and equations that has remained perceptible in his conceptual processes. As a result, and anchored by a playful experimentation of contrasting prints, patterns and textures, his designs combine a sophisticated and mature approach to creativity and production that is particularly noticeable in his command of artisanal manufacturing techniques and appreciation for detailed hand-woven fabrics.

Currently enrolled in Milan’s Istituto Marangoni, Scarpari took a break from his fashion studies to return to his native Brazil and show his latest collection during the official line-up of Dragão Fashion Brasil, a key event in the Brazilian calendar of showcases for the fashion and clothing industries. Entitled ‘B-24’, the collection (which had previously been selected to be shown during a fashion trade show in Vicenza, Italy) drew inspiration from the idea of incorporating the genetic code into the design of unique garments in order to highlight the importance of individuality. This was achieved by a painstakingly crafted treatment of fabrics, particularly of softened leather worked through hand-woven three-dimensional houndstooth patterns. In addition, Brazilian and Italian cool wool and organic silk were used in fitted tops, tailored shirts, jackets, trousers, and overalls. 

Photograph © The Style Examiner / João Paulo Nunes

Photograph © The Style Examiner / João Paulo Nunes

Focussing on a colour palette of crimson, faded pink, black and white, the collection featured asymmetric silhouettes and frilled shorts that showed the influence of recent menswear designs by J.W. Anderson while audaciously and confidently attempting to push forward the boundaries of conventional tailoring. Nevertheless, when I asked whether Brazilian male consumers were ready for such innovative concepts, Jonathan Scarpari seemed unfazed about his immediate future: “For now, I see my fashion career progressing in Europe. Once that is achieved, I intend to explore the Brazilian menswear market as I think there is a growing number of men in this country clearly interested in fashion as a manifestation of individual style.” 

Unless otherwise specified, photographs are courtesy of Dragão Fashion Brasil

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