Friday, 4 July 2014

Matthew Miller Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear

Drawing inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2015 menswear creations from what life must feel like for soldiers once they return home from war and are faced with a post-conflict setting of peaceful existence in stark contrast with fighting and death, London-based fashion designer Matthew Miller conceived ‘Introversion’, what can undoubtedly be considered one of his most accomplished collections to date.

Resorting to historical images of mass-produced ‘demob’ suits that British soldiers were given to wear as they demobilised after World War II and returned to civilian life, Miller explored the ‘one-size-fits-all’ cut of double-breasted jackets and wide trouser legs in a muted palette of navy blue and chalk grey (in plain or pinstriped versions) that intended to conjure heroic appreciation within somehow rigid parameters of masculine behaviour as it was socially constructed at the time. However, Miller questions the notions of war, peace and social normativism by deconstructing the generic and impersonal nature of such ‘demob’ garments while imbuing them with original tailoring details. The result is a symbiotically engineered collection that fuses conventional suiting with staples of casualwear such as denim and biker jackets while incorporating angular details such as oversized pleats on the back of jackets and sharply pinched shoulder lines.

The emasculating role played by governmental control forces to make soldiers become civilians once again (or the part played by public hegemonic control over the private realm) is elegantly suggested by Matthew Miller throughout his collection by a pervading sense of androgyny, a concept that is further explored by the seeming rejection of adornment in the form collarless overcoats, sleeveless V-neck tops, and shirts and overcoats with rounded hems.

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Photographs courtesy of Matthew Miller

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