Sunday, 6 July 2014

Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear

Faced with designing the Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection for her label Versace, doyenne of figure-hugging and flesh-revealing tailoring Donatella Versace summed up her inspiration by declaring, “I love my men, who have always been dressing with freedom, confidence and individuality.” The result, as revealed on a runway show during Milan men’s fashion week in June 2014, was an explosion of colour and relaxed sophistication influenced by 1980s tailoring and the energy of Cuban culture and lifestyle with an abundance of casual looks including suits worn with T-shirts, tailored shorts, and single-breasted one-button suits transformed into jumpsuits.

To convey its conceptual brief, the collection featured Havana street scenes writ large in garments such as macramé embroidered shirts and patchwork leather jackets, while Cuban graffiti inspired prints and jacquard textures. Rich fabrics such as crepe de chine, wool crepe and luxurious silk jersey added dimension and depth of movement to suits, blousons and track pants, whereas knitwear continued this sense of fluidity in clothing, with drop-stitch cardigans, fine-gauge crochets and cable cardigans in cotton and lurex.

As expected of Versace’s interpretation of masculinity, leather, denim, swimwear and underwear played a key role in the collection. Depicting the label’s trademark overblown depictions of secondary gender characteristics of male identity, the collection included strong-shouldered white denim jackets, white jeans cut and embroidered with baroque swirls, laser cut hand-frayed black jeans, black leather biker jackets with open laced sleeves, and skimpy white underwear and swimwear. Accessories including rope chain Medusa bracelets, thin gold necklaces, ankle chains and medallions with miniature fragrance bottles served to complement an out-and-proud masculinity that also embraced a colour palette of reformed pastels and gold.

Photographs courtesy of Versace

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